Carcassonne—Roadtrip to Aguilar, Peyrepertuse Castles & St. Hilaire Abbey

Today we explored the Chateaux of Hautes Corbieres, castles of the high Pyrenees foothills. Roads were narrow and wound through gorges (i.e. canyons) dotted by vineyards. If you want to practice your Lemans driving skills take route D611.

Our find of the day was Cucugnan, a pristine (i.e. fairyland quality) village between Queribus and Peyrepertuse castles. Something happens here, because the restaurants were pricey and there were lots of hotels and a large theatre. Photos were posted outside a little store, and from the looks of it, they have a major rock climbing and arts festival there.

We avoided the high-priced lunches and wandered to the highest point of the village where we enjoyed a light lunch of a pizza-like croissant (pictured below) at a boulangerie that mills its own flour. There's a 17th century windmill above the bakery for good views of the mountains and valleys. We encountered our first thunder, lightning, and hail storm, and so we thought traipsing around the top of Peyrepertuse might not be a good idea. Instead we took pictures from a lookout built especially for the lazy or prudent visitor. The drive between Peyrepertuse and St. Hilaire was spectacular as we wound through the mountains, where occasionally villages appeared nestled between peaks.

Later we managed to make it to our car just as the skies opened up over St. Hilaire. It poured buckets. By the time we drove back to Carcassonne (20 minutes or so) it was sunny and showery just like April in Seattle. And by the time I parked the car 10 minutes later, it was sunny and clear again.

School group with nets, capturing flying bugs.

Aguilar Castle

Aguilar Castle

Lord Rick at Aguilar Castle.

Invader Rick.

Aguilar Castle perched above valley. You can see for miles.

Vineyards at the base of Aguilar Castle.

Note scaffolding. Restoration work is underway.

Roadside rest stop.

Cucugnan boulangerie.

They mill their own flour and the food is scrumptious.

Look hard. Do you see Marie's reflection?

Sooooo tasty!

Valley below Cucugnan.

Miller walking & talking on the way to lunch with
entire boulangerie staff. Seven staff members sat
at a picnic table and ate lunch together.

This little town is worth a visit, but based on the posted hotel
and restaurant prices, this is a tourist destination. Situated
between Queribus and Peyrepertuse Castles helps, of course.

Queribus Castle taken from Cucugnan parking lot. We didn't
feel the urge to climb every castle in area.

Duilhac-Peyrepertuse, the village at the base of the castle.

Peyrepertuse Castle blends right in with granite mountain top.

The sky is washed out, because a storm is passing overhead.
In the distance we spied another approaching. Decided not
to climb to the castle, avoiding the lightning and next
hail storm.

Village from the foot of Peyrepertuse Castle.

Even outcrops look like castles.

On the road again, driving north through the mountains from
Peyrepertuse to St. Hilaire Abbey. Narrow winding road with
spectacular vistas around nearly every bend.

One of many villages nestled between mountains where 

farmers make cheese from goats and cows. 

St. Hilaire Abbey. Capitals of church columns carved with
anthropomorphic characters and flora designs.

Wine cellar where sparkling wine, rumored to be invented at
St. Hilaire in 1531, was stored.

Abbey cloister built in the 13th century.

Abbey was founded in 825 but cloisters were closed in
1758 because St. Hilaire's was in dire financial straits (again).
At the end of the 18th century much of the Abbey's land and
out buildings were sold.

Abbots residence. While monks lived spartan lives the man
in charge didn't.

Ceiling panels in Abbot's residence.

Although only two rooms containing gray marble fireplaces,

the Abbot clearly didn't take a vow of poverty.