France 2026—April 25-28

April 25-26—SeaTac to Charles de Gualle to Dinner with Gavin and Elaine

Saturday was a long but good travel day. After all the hype in the papers about long security lines we changed our arrival time to SeaTac just in case. So we walk off the ferry, meet our driver in front of the Coleman Ferry Terminal, drive 17 minutes to SeaTac and... right, no lines. Luckily, we had time to meet with a Delta ticketing agent so he could correct a computer glitch with my ticket. Somehow my last name was included twice and so I couldn't get a boarding pass, because the name on my passport didn't match my ticket. Ya, my passport only has my last name once—of course. Eduardo, the Delta agent, was cheerful and corrected the error and we were off to TSA Pre√, except we didn't bother, because there was no one, and I mean NO BODY at the regular TSA line. We walked right up checked in with a TSA agent and he gave us an expedited card to indicate to the other agents that we had TSA Pre√, and viola, we had three hours to burn before our flight.

At Charles de Gualle, we expected long lines, because they instituted a biometric procedure that has slowed down Passport Control. Well, this also was a shocker. The huge room with the rat maze all airports use to make travelers walk up and down and back and forth to an entry point was there and we ran the course and stood behind 3 people going through the biometric thingie. Two French agents were there to assist and within 5 minutes our passports were scanned and we had our pictures taken and that was it. We took a taxi to our hotel and had three hours to freshen up and have a little rest before meeting Gavin and Elaine for dinner at La Marine at 7PM.

I sure hope the rest of our 5 weeks in France go as smoothly as the start of this holiday!

The flight was smooth and uneventful, except for
one distressed baby screaming in first class. Event-
ually, she passed out and so did we. 

Our flight route 30 minutes after departing SeaTac.

Pre-dinner snack.

Ravioli dinner on Delta 80 to Paris.

Me, Marie, & Gavin on one of the many pedestrian
bridges that cross Canal St. Martin. Elaine, Gavin's
wife, took this picture and we'll include one of all
of us after they send it to me.

Does this look like April 26th?

La Marine fronts Canal St. Martin. We had such a good time talking and eating salmon, lemon sole, & boeuf with grilled mushrooms, and profiteroles with chocolate sauce for dessert that we forgot to take pictures.

This is a restaurant Gavin and Elaine like and have come back to several times during their month in Paris, and all I can say is, they chose well. Fantastic and friendly service and really delicious food!

And here we all are!

April 27—Avignon

The trip from Paris to Avignon, with one stop at Lyon Saint Exupery Tgv averaged 299km (185mph) and took three hours. Second Class on the Tgv is comfortable and inexpensive, and seniors get a reduced fair. 

Inside train. Didn't want to intrude on
passenger privacy too much. Pic taken
from seat level down the aisle.

Route, speed, and updated ETA's on ceiling monitors.

It was 77(F)/25(C) when we arrived around 1430, and after checking into Hotel Bouquier, we took our usual orientation walk and got the lay of the land. 

Our orientation walk took us down Rue de la
Republique, Avignon's main street running from
the train stationto the Rhone River. Now a museum, 
this former church's facade is still impressive.

Avignon Theatre on Main Square.

Now a hotel this papal residence only
rates three starts. (see red plaque)

The Papal Palace was the seat of Western 
Christianity in the 14th century. It is massive.

Closer look at Papal Palace entrance.

Modern apartments with passage
underneath to the next street.

This is the backside of the Papal Palace.
Note how the wall is built to include the
massive natural stone.

Section of Avignon's original wall that encircles entire town.

We took this short cut through the
massive stone wall surrounding the city.

Just a cool side street as we get oriented.

We ended our orientation walk of 3+ miles with a plan for Tuesday and called it a day at 5PM, stopping at an Irish pub for a beer and cider and then a stop at the Monoprix (a grocery chain) for a light meal. I've been drafting this entry for about an hour now and Marie is now sound asleep (current time 2030). We haven't quite recovered from jet lag even though the walk helped. I'm going to join her shortly.

Tomorrow our plan is to begin the day early with coffee and croissants at Les Halles and then take one or two of the walks described in the Avignon "Leisure and Heritage Map" and then take a midday rest to avoid the heat. It's only supposed to be 76(F)/24C, but the sun is pretty intense this far south so we don't want to push it. We'll take another heritage walk later in the afternoon. That's the plan but we'll see.

April 28—Avignon

Avignon is an old city, dating back to 4th century which is apparent walking along Rue de la Republique. It is one of the few French cities to have preserved its city walls. Avignon is also known as 'La Cité des Papes' (The City of the Popes, 1307-1348).

The historic centre, which includes the Palais des Papes, Avignon Cathedral and the Pont d'Avignon, became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995 because of its architecture and importance during the 14th and 15th centuries.^[12] The medieval monuments and the annual Festival d'Avignon – one of the world's largest festivals for performing arts^[13] – have helped to make the town a major centre for tourism. (Wikipedia)

See Wikipedia for: 

• Cultural Heritage at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Avignon#Notable_people
• A Timeline at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Timeline_of_Avignon

Check out Avignon Tourisme for a simulated walk through its streets. This website provides descriptions and pictures of Avignon's most significant sites. And the Avignon's "Leisure and Heritage Map" includes 10 color coded walks that also include descriptions of historical and cultural sites.

The South Island—Lake Tekapo to Christchurch, March 6-9, 2025

Lake Tekapo to Geraldine and on to Christchurch, March 6, 2025

This is the last post for this trip. It covers getting to Christchurch and the last three days there.

James, John, or Jock with his dog Friday.

Statue in Fairle of the legendary sheep rustler.

Geraldine is known for its craft makers of all things agricultural.

We couldn't resist purchasing some of the delicious cheese.

About 90 minutes after leaving Geraldine, we dropped off our car at Apex Car Rentals near the airport. The taxi I prearranged to take us in to downtown Christchurch pulled in minutes later. It was a smooth transition.

 

After checking into Christchurch City Hotel we did our usual orientation walk, and within 30 minutes, were enjoying a beer at the Riverside Market. We followed that up with a tapas dinner and a walk to the edge of the Botanical Gardens before calling it a day. 

 

Sculpture of wheat stalks.

Rise from the Rubble is on the side of the Ibis Hotel.

Robert Falcon Scott in the background, but it was the begonias that captured our attention.

Avon River runs through the town centre.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Looking down to market shops & restaurants from 2nd floor.

We decided on Castro's tapas.

The aftermath.

 

 

The Arts Centre, formerly Canterbury College.

 

Canterbury College observatory is now a hotel.

Christchurch, March 7th

Today we walked 5.8 miles following the tram tracks in search of murals and other street art. After that we strolled along the Avon River, discovering the Christchurch Earthquake Memorial before enjoying the Botanical Gardens, circling back and through the Arts Centre campus and then over to Riverside Market for some refreshments and good conversation with an Australian couple (Ross & Sandy). We ended our day at Chiwahwah Mexican Cantina for some tasty tacos and margaritas.

The tram circles city center and the conductor provides...

...historical information. We walked the tram route and did our own homework about Christchurch.

This one was finished just this year.

A cameraman from a local news station taped us gawking at the 7 story mural above.

A lot of these murals can be found at Watch This Space. Click here to see its gallery of murals. Everyone of these murals covers the expanse of a building and some are several stories as well.

Sir Edmund Hillary.

Ernest Rutherford, known as the father of nuclear physics.

Drowning in text or is that texts?

This mural is painted on a flat surface.

The illusion is amazing.

Proof the surface is flat.

We walked along the Avon River that...

...runs through the city and borders the Botanical Gardens.

February 22, 2011 is when it struck, killing 185.

Wreaths line the wall under the names of those killed.

Leave trees alone for 150 years you get this....

...and this.

Weeding the river of excess grasses.

The Edward Albert Oak planted in 1863...

..is less impressive than this Ulmus Minor.

The dahlia garden is more impressive than the rose.

You saw this coming I'm sure.

Fountain opposite the Arts Centre, formerly Canterbury College.

Arts Centre entrance.

Just another mural on our way to the Riverside Market.

Love the detail of the bird as well.

This shop is serious about their treats. (see below)

See selection below includes venison, of course.

And we're off to dinner.

 

 

Christchurch, March 8th

Today we joined Gaby, our "local" guide, for the Hidden Gems and Highlights three hour walking tour where we got a perspective about the ongoing reconstruction/renovation of Christchurch after the 2011 Earthquake. Now we understand why Christchurch seems so new with open spaces. [Gaby was born in Seattle and lived there until he was 10, but has lived in Christchurch the past 18 years.]

 

Those empty spaces once had buildings on them, but when they collapsed in the earthquake, the rubble was removed and used to enlarge the Lyttelton Harbor, now New Zealand's largest deep water port. 

 

Some of the older buildings could be salvaged and earthquake-proofed (mostly), but the rest of the buildings look new because they are. The new buildings are generally no more than 4 stories and the roads have all been repaved and the infrastructure placed underground and, at great expense, expanded to accommodate growth. 

 

The problem has been that some areas, even 14 years later, haven't bounced back and whole neighborhoods east of the city center were deemed too dangerous to build on again. Today they are green spaces and parks.

New Regent Street is lined with coffee shops and...

The Spanish Mission style is colorful.

... restaurants; it's another hip place to hang out.

The Church is now a pub. It reminded us...

...of the one in Dublin. Same concept.

The colloquial name is "The Cardboard Cathedral".

The structure is made from industrial carpet rolls.

Yes, even the cross behind the altar...

...and the pulpit are cardboard carpet rolls.

On one side of a street you might see a trendy, new restaurant.

And the other side, ongoing construction.

For some the recovery was too slow. This guy decided to open a bar in a school bus on an empty lot. The bus is surrounded by picnic tables with umbrellas serving as a roof, protecting customers from the elements. Now it's one of the most popular locals in Christchurch.

Artwork is everywhere in Christchurch.

C1 Espresso is in the first floor of the old...

...Post and Telegraph Office. There used to...

...be a bank upstairs.

Today pneumatic tubes...

...deliver sliders and fries to tables.

Some of us are old enough to remember when banks had drive up windows with pneumatic tubes where you could make banking transactions without getting out of your car. C1 Espresso is a pretty playful place. They have a sewing machine that dispenses water and another dentist spit sink that dispenses sparkling water. And the bathrooms are behind a library wall that automatically slides open when you walk toward it.

Turn the "Balance Wheel" to get water.

Door to bathrooms.

Kate Sheppard led the fight for suffrage, which was won in 1893.

The rest of the world followed afterward.

We ended our walk at the Christchurch Art Gallery Extension at the Dreaming Big exhibit.

This is worth enlarging and reading for exhibit context.

 

 

 

 

A wharenui is a Maori meeting house and harikoa is Maori for joyful. This exhibit is a house of joy and...

...it is entirely crocheted. These women show the scale.

Lots of people wove dreams to be sent to Hiwa.

Here's a picture of our guide Gaby and a video I took of a boy feeding lampreys in the Avon River right downtown opposite the Riverside Market. After the 2011 earthquake, a great deal of work went into rehabilitating the river, making it accessible to residents and habitable again for the eels. They have made a comeback. You can read about lampreys here. They are fascinating creatures.

Gaby at C1 Espresso.

The Christchurch Art Gallery Extension is a few blocks from our hotel through Cathedral Square. 

The Citizens War Memorial. Note still wrecked cathedral in the background.

This timeline isn't accurate, because the fund to renovate the cathedral wasn't enough to complete it, so Christchurch Cathedral sits in the square held up by steel beams 14 years after the earthquake while citizens and other foundations figure out how to pay for its completion.

The Chalice is being renovated.

Obviously, it's next to the cathedral.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tomorrow is a long travel day. We have a flight to Auckland at 10:00 and then fly to Vancouver, B.C. at 13:00, arriving at 06:30 Pacific Time. Our 30 minute flight to Seattle is at 8:50. Thankfully, we meet a town car at Sea/Tac where we'll be whisked to the ferry. We'll be home, mostly likely, before noon.

A Few Final Observations

• New Zealanders are more than polite and friendly; they are CHEERFUL and enthusiastically so!
• The coffee throughout the country is outstanding.
• In major cities, the crosswalk signals allow pedestrians to cross diagonally. It's a brilliant system where all traffic is stopped at all four corners, making diagonally pedestrian crossing possible and safe.
• Everybody embraces the Maori ethics of hospitality and care for others, the responsibility to care for and be the guardian of the environment (this is especially obvious to visitors), and the principles of sustainability, honoring a shared vision of diversity, recognizing historical injustices and safeguarding Maori culture, rights, and resources, improving the well-being and health of everyone, and the right to self determination, and working together for the good of the community,