A Sunday Drive on a Tuesday—April 26, 2016

The past two days after returning from Barcelona have been quiet. Besides listening to Wait Wait and Prairie Home Companion we've taken walks, read our novels, and napped. Today we picked up a rental car so we could spend a few days in the countryside. It's lovely here just 30 minutes outside the city.

This morning we headed toward Limoux and drove along a two lane road through Chalabre and Puivert, eventually stopping for lunch at Quillan, another cute as hell medieval town. Arriving at Quillan from the north is stunning. We crested a hill and spiraled down the road to the town nestled in the valley surrounded by forested mountains. Reminded us of villages in the Swiss Alps.

Marie at the view point overlooking Quillan.

Quillan from same view point.

This is the house Marie wants.

Rick wants this one.

Aude River runs through Quillan.

The kayak obstacle course is over Marie's right shoulder.
Hiking, downhill skiing, and camping are popular here.

Found the well-appointed Big i Tourism
Office, collected a map, and conducted
the self-directed tour of the town's church,
castle, squares, bridges, and statues. 

Typical medieval town street.

Mother and son walking to the river to feed ducks?

She probably doesn't kayak anymore.

Now where to for lunch?

Cafe Le Feuve, a little place run by one guy (waiter, cook, and chief bottle washer) on the Place du Republic.

It's a duck and mashed potato casserole with a lovely salad
surrounding it. Lunch was exquisite. 

Marie had lamb that was so tender it fell apart with a fork. And
I thought mine was good.

Outdoor seating at Cafe Le Feuve.

Looked at homes for sale in the window of a realty office just for the fun of it.















Reluctantly, we drove back the way we arrived, and were happy we did, because about ten minutes later we spied Chateaux Puivert looming over the valley. We drove up the pot-holed, narrow, single lane to a parking lot at the foot of the castle and spent an hour wandering its grounds. Like Saissac, this 14th century castle was impressive. How something so massive could be built on top of a mountain with sweeping vistas of several valleys boggles (yet again) the mind. The best part was climbing the spiral stone staircase of the castle keep where the chapel and music hall above it were open and lighted.

Chateaux Puivert

Road condition up to castle.

If you make it up the road, then there's a trail
that winds to the castle.

The payoff is Puivert. Enjoy the rest of the pictures.

Castle Keep rebuilt in 14th century.

Keystone in chapel's vaulted ceiling. This is probably
Thomas de Bruyère  and his wife Isabelle de Melun, the
couple who rebuilt Puivert in the 14th century,
adding the current Keep.

Chapel in Castle Keep.

Above the chapel is the music hall. It's difficult to see, but

this is a musician playing a flute-like instrument. Similar

carvings of musicians decorate the hall.

Music hall.

View of the Pyrenees from the Castle Keep.

Marie climbs for a better view.

  

Castle Keep entrance.

Companion ticket taker at the top of the mountain.

The long and winding road back to the valley.

This grass strip lay at the foot of Puivert in the middle of

farm land. Not a bad life.

This guy just landed as we parked.

Our meanderings around the countryside ended in Mirepoix, another cute as hell medieval town with a 13th century square that has been preserved, revealing exposed timbers that support the homes built over the first floor shops. Yep, even then architects designed retail below and townhouses and apartments above.

Once home we picked up a great thin crust 

pizza with generous and fresh toppings at 

du Dome at a fabulous price.

Jean Denis makes pizzas to order in his tiny
place that looks like a toll booth for a bridge. 

The larger dome, known as The Dome to locals. The little
building in front with the red door is Le Kiosque Du Dome.

A closer look. He can seat one, but mostly locals call in and
pick up their pizza just like us. There are park benches nearby
if a person just can't wait.