Scandinavia—September 29th

The Bergensbanen—Bergen back to Oslo

Took the 7 hour train from Bergen back to Oslo as we begin our way back to Copenhagen over the next two days. The first hop is this one, and tomorrow, we leave Oslo for Gothenburg, Sweden at 14:14 for a 3.5 hour train trip. 

We had a sunny day today, and that was unexpected, so the trip through the mountains and the rugged and picturesque Hallingskarvit National Park was especially scenic. As you'll see from the pictures the mountain pass got its first snow dusting. At the the 3,666 foot level there was a bit more than a dusting but  not much. Still it was pretty.

We arrived in Oslo at 19:15, checked into The Clarion Hub near the train station and walked up Johan Karl Street to our favorite pub where we shared an order of fish and chips and To-To's goat cheese salad. Felt good to stretch our legs. Monday we'll visiting City Hall where the Nobel Peace Prize is awarded. It was closed to the public for a government event 6 days ago when we tried to visit before leaving for Bergen. We're hoping it won't be closed to the public tomorrow. After that, we may visit Akershus Fortress.

So, here are some pictures from the Bergensbannen train ride.

Lille Lungegardsvannet lake and fountain on the walk to the
Bergen train station.

Bergen train station.

Between each train car, a comfort station offers

complimentary tea and coffee.

The seats are comfortable, recline, and provide

plenty of leg room. We could stretch out without

touching the seat in front of us.

Starting the climb into the mountains.

The Finse Hotel is at 3,666 feet (1222m). Love how they
join the older lodge on the left with the newer rooms on
the right. That's a train car acting as a hallway between
the buildings.

Scandinavia—September 27th & 28th

 Bergen—Guided Day Tour, Nærøyfjord Cruise and Flåm Railway

Here's how Get Your Guide advertises the excursion:

Embark on a tour of the Norwegian countryside. Experience the Nærøyfjord, one of the narrowest fjords in the world, and travel by road, rail, and water while admiring the panoramic views.

Explore the best of Norway's natural beauty on this guided discovery tour of Naeröyfjord and Flåmsbanen. Begin your tour at the Strandkaien Terminal and board the bus on a transfer to Gudvangen. On the way we stop at Tvinde Waterfall and Stalheim Viewpoint. From Gudvangen enjoy a 2-hour scenic fjord cruise to Flåm on a comfortable electric ship with large windows and patio area. See the Naeröyfjord, one of the narrowest fjords in the world which has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Get your camera ready to take breathtaking photos of the steep mountainsides, hanging valleys, towering peaks, and waterfalls along the way. Be amazed by Norway's natural beauty. Upon arrival in Flam, a charming village surrounded by precipitous mountainsides, rumbling waterfalls and narrow valleys, take a stroll through the picturesque town center or visit the Flåm Railway Museum.

Continue the tour and board the Flåm Railway, one of the world's steepest railway tracks on regular tracks. Enjoy the panoramic view of Norway's most magnificent mountains and pass by the famous Kjosfossen waterfall on the 20-kilometer-12.6-mile-long train journey.

The line's elevation difference is 866 meters (2,841 ft); it has ten stations, twenty tunnels and one bridge. Because of its steep gradient and picturesque nature, the Flåm Line is now almost exclusively a tourist service and has become the third-most visited tourist attraction in Norway. At Myrdal change to the Bergen Railway to Voss, and then a bus back to Bergen where the tour started.

And our experience lived up to the advertising. Here are some pictures from September 27th.

(Remember, you can click on pictures to enlarge them for detail.)

Inside one of 6 tunnels on our way to

Tvinde Waterfall and Stalheim Viewpoint.

The countryside in the valleys has a Swiss feel to them.

Tvinde Waterfall—over the years a fountain of youth
mythology has developed about drinking its water.

The Stalheim Hotel is famous for its views and hikes.

The main lobby has views out to the valley. See what
I mean by the picture to the right?

 

This is a view that requires another look.

Everything looks better with us 

standing in front of it.

Next stop Gudvangen where we boarded an electric ship for a 2-hour scenic fjord cruise up Naeröyfjord, one of the narrowest fjords in the world, to Flåm. This fjord is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The sheep were running free from their stone pen.

People live and work along the fjord. The only way to reach these
small settlements is by barge/boat.

Some folks prefer zipping along the fjord in these.

Some prefer a more intimate experience.

Another ship like ours.

Can't believe people live atop this cliff face over the fjord.

Here's a close up.

Flam—what to see and do.

 

This is what greets you upon entering.

We had to share their double IPA.

Maria, our tour guide, gives us the run down on
upcoming rail excursion.

Oh look, another waterfall.

One of the farms families have worked for generations.

Road to the top of the 2600' pass. Our train will
take a less circuitous route.

The Kjosfossen waterfall is one of the most visited 

tourist attractions in Norway.  Its total fall is about

225 metres (738 ft). There is a small hydro electric

station at the bottom of the waterfall that powers the 

Flåm Line railway. The train stops at the falls for a 

few minutes for pictures.

While I was taking this video, music boomed out and, just in case the falls weren't enough of an attraction, Nora of the Huldra mythology, made an appearance. The Huldra is the Norwegian version of the Sirens in Greek mythology. Yep, it doesn't end well for hikers either.

 

It felt kind of like a Disney moment.

The Naeroyfjord worth one last look!

Today, September 28th, was a free day—nothing planned so we checked out the Saturday Market, found Bergen's best hot chocolate, and then dodged a rain shower by stepping into a free museum. Free is always good, but this was especially fun because we stumbled upon a chicken exhibition. Serendipity, once again, served us well. The university student volunteering as the docent told us all about the distinct personalities of the rooster and two hens.

It's one of those typical 'Seattle'
days. Rain with breaks of sun
and then more rain.

Ya, this is a thing.

  

There are three options, not just the usual choice.

Be sure to click on this and read it. I love the
name of this free museum and so appropriate
for this exhibition. 

This exhibition was a ton of fun.

A chicken's DNA in 1,200 pages.

The chickens enjoy looking at themselves. The docent told us
they sleep in front of the mirror, too.

Just liked this door and the...

...handle. It's not part of the exhibition.

In the early evening we headed out for dinner and
this rally to Free Palestine/End the Gaza War 
was underway in the main square.

We asked our server for tapas and wine

recommendations and she hit a home run! 

This is the the best meal we've had on 

this trip or almost anywhere.

Baguette with Manchego cheese, jamon,
and Manchego cheese topped by a triangle
slice of concentrated quince jam.

Potatoes, deep fried eggplant, cod croquettes, and deep fried 
Manchego cheese wrapped in bacon and lightly breaded with
panko and fire-roasted peppers served with aioli and chipotle 
sauce. The wine balanced it all.

  

Vinbaren, with a rating of 4.8/5, is on Kaigaten Street opposite Lille Lungegardsvannet, 

the small lake at Bergen's center. This intimate tapas/wine bar served a lovely meal over

a leisurely 1.5 hours.